Bollinger B16 Champagne Review: Bollinger's Bold Departure From Power to Precision
Nov 14, 2025
Bollinger: The House That Defined Prestige Champagne
Founded in 1829 in the Grand Cru village of Aÿ, Maison Bollinger has built its reputation on powerful, Pinot Noir-dominant Champagnes crafted through uncompromising traditional methods. The house remains family-owned, holds two Royal Warrants from the British court, and employs Champagne's last resident cooper - maintaining barrel fermentation and extended lees aging when most producers abandoned these costly practices decades ago.
Under the legendary Madame Lily Bollinger's mid-20th century leadership, the house cemented its philosophy: quality through tradition, even when methods appear antiquated. Today, Bollinger sources exclusively from Grands and Premiers Crus, defining the benchmark for structured, age-worthy Champagne.
The 2016 Vintage: From Turbulence to Transparency
Both 2013 and 2016 began with adversity, yet the path each vintage took shaped entirely different expressions. The 2013 growing season endured a long winter punctuated by snow and frost, a wet and hesitant spring, then a scorching summer with violent thunderstorms, the weather was so turbulent it resulted in one of Champagne's latest harvests in 20 years, not finishing until October. Bollinger responded with B13, a muscular 100% Pinot Noir Blanc de Noirs from just five crus (92% Grands Crus, 8% Premiers Crus) that channeled that dramatic season into powerful, generous fruit.
The 2016 season followed a similar script but a different ending. The year began with a cold and exceptionally wet spring, with rainfall far exceeding average levels. Late frosts in April and May ravaged the vineyards, significantly reducing yields before the season just begun. A gloomy, sunless June delayed flowering for both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir until month's end, leaving vignerons uncertain about the harvest ahead.
Then came what Champagne calls "le miracle" - the miracle. From August onward, the weather transformed entirely: hot, dry, and gloriously sunny conditions provided ideal ripening for the surviving grapes. But where 2013's dramatic summer produced concentrated power, 2016's gentle warmth encouraged elegance and finesse. August and September delivered generous sunshine and slightly elevated temperatures, allowing the fruit to develop a unique aromatic palette, a one that would inspire a radical departure from B13's approach.
Chef de Cave Denis Bunner made a bold decision with B16: to explore the latest-ripening areas of the Montagne de Reims, focusing on unusual terroirs that had never before taken center stage in a Bollinger vintage cuvée. The resulting blend of 73% Pinot Noir and 27% Chardonnay, with Bouzy contributing a remarkable 25% share and no Aÿ fruit whatsoever, represents a dramatic departure from both Bollinger's house style and B13's pure Pinot expression. Fermented in oak barrels and aged seven years on the lees before hand-riddling and disgorgement, B16 received an even lower dosage than B13—just 4 grams per liter versus 6—allowing the terroir to speak with crystalline clarity.
Tasting Notes: Bollinger B16 2016
The 2016 vintage presents a crystal-clear appearance with glimmers of golden light dancing in the glass. The nose opens gently, delicate hawthorn and acacia blossom intertwine with honeyed notes, revealing the wine's infinite finesse. Ripe white peach and sweet almond emerge alongside bergamot's lively citrus lift.
On the palate, this is Bollinger like you've never tasted before. A silky texture unfolds with ethereal grace, delivering subtle elegance rather than the house's trademark power. Orchard fruits—pear and yellow plum—lead the profile, complemented by fresh almonds and hints of tarte Tatin. What truly distinguishes B16 is its chiseled precision: mineral-driven Pinot Noir brings candied lemon and citrus zest, while an unexpected salty tang adds dimension to the wine's caressing silkiness. The finish stretches long and delicate, with velvety persistence and a saline hint that beckons another sip.
This is not the Bollinger you know, it's transparent where you expect weight, filigree where you anticipate structure. B16 proves that Champagne's most powerful house can whisper when the vintage demands it.
A Bold Departure Worth Discovering
The Bollinger B16 isn't just another vintage Champagne, it's proof that even Champagne's most powerful house knows when to embrace finesse over force.
Born from a season of contrasts and crafted with terroirs that had never before defined a Bollinger cuvée, this expression channels the magic of 2016 into something utterly unexpected. Where B13 roared with concentrated power, B16 whispers with crystalline elegance.
For those seeking Champagne that prioritizes vintage expression over house style, this limited-edition release represents Bollinger at its most daring; silky, mineral-driven, and completely unforgettable.
