Exploring China's Finest: Ao Yun - A Pioneering Winery (1/8)
Feb 07, 2025
In our last article, we explored the prominent wine regions of China. Following that discussion, it’s only fitting to highlight some of the most notable wineries in the country. With a staggering count of over 450 wineries, we can’t cover them all, but we’ve handpicked 8 standout options that are either well-loved or show significant promise.
Ao Yun 敖雲
The Background
One of the most recognized names in Chinese winemaking is Ao Yun 敖雲, which has captured the attention of wine aficionados. Established by the luxury conglomerate LVMH (Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton Group), this winery emerged to cater to the rising number of wealthy Chinese wine collectors and their growing appetite for high-end wines. LVMH set out to create a top-tier winery in China, seeking land capable of producing exceptional red wine. Their ambition was to craft a wine that could compete with renowned regions like Bordeaux. The distinctive climate and elevated vineyards in Yunnan Province offered the perfect setting to realize this vision.
LVMH enlisted the expertise of Tony Jordan, a winemaker from Domaine Chandon Australia, to explore potential sites for Ao Yun Winery. While he examined traditional Chinese wine regions, he discovered that the humid rainy season in Shandong hindered grape ripening, complicating organic farming efforts. On the other hand, Ningxia boasted plenty of sunshine and a dry climate, but its harsh winters posed a challenge. After an extensive four-year exploration across all of China’s provinces, Tony ultimately chose Deqin County in northwestern Yunnan Province, not far from the mythical Shangri-La. Nestled at the base of Meili Snow Mountain, vineyards were planted in the villages of Adong, Xidang, Sinong, and Shuori, situated at altitudes between 2200 and 2600 meters. The region's climate closely resembles that of Bordeaux, providing the perfect terroir conditions that the Ao Yun team sought.
The Geography and Weather
The vineyards of Ao Yun cover approximately 30 hectares, spread along both sides of the Lancang River at altitudes above 2,200 meters. The vineyard in Adong village, at an altitude of 2,600 meters, is the highest in the world. Despite the cloud cover and terrain obstructions, the vineyards still enjoy excellent light conditions with daily sunlight exposure of about 8-9 hours.
The long growing season with significant temperature differences between day and night allows the phenolic compounds, sugars, and acidity in the grapes to mature simultaneously. Located in the Three Parallel Rivers region, the vineyards benefit from the sediment brought by the Nu River, Lancang River, and Jinsha River, forming a complex terrain with distinctive microclimates.
Surrounded by mountains ranging from 5,000 to 7,000 meters in altitude, the natural barrier protects the vineyards from heavy rain and monsoons. The strong ultraviolet rays at high altitudes thicken the grape skins, resulting in complex and smooth tannins. The steep terrain allows the roots to penetrate deep into the soil, up to 3 meters.
These unique natural conditions together create the distinctive flavor and complexity of Ao Yun's fine wines.
Grapes and Craftsmanship
The vineyards are currently home to a variety of grapes, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot, and some experimental types. Looking ahead, there are plans to explore the cultivation of Syrah and Malbec. These vineyards are organized into 320 small plots, each averaging about 1.3 mu (approximately 0.086 hectares).
To adapt to the local environment, Ao Yun employs skilled Tibetan farmers to oversee the vineyards. They practice organic farming using yak manure and refrain from artificial methods like irrigation, which helps the grapes acclimate to the challenging natural climate and achieve optimal growth.
Maxence Dulou, the estate manager, shared that Ao Yun dedicates 3,500 hours per hectare annually to studying the climate and soil, ensuring they leverage their unique advantages. In contrast, only a handful of vineyards in France are tended to manually, with those managing just 1,000 hours per hectare each year. By committing three and a half times more labor, Ao Yun enhances vineyard management and elevates grape quality to the highest standards.
The 2013 Debut: Ao Yun's First Vintage and Global Acclaim
In 2013, Ao Yun introduced its inaugural vintage, releasing a total of 24,000 bottles worldwide, with 6,000 allocated for mainland China. This vintage featured a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc sourced from 314 distinct plots, with all grapes meticulously hand-harvested. The selected grapes underwent approximately 40 days of maceration and alcoholic fermentation, followed by malolactic fermentation (MLF). During this phase, 40% of the wine was aged in new French oak barrels, while the remainder was stored in brand new Chinese clay jars.
Upon its launch, the wine garnered widespread acclaim from the wine community. Notable wine critic James Suckling, along with two senior critics from the British wine publication Decanter, awarded it scores of 93, 94, and 92, respectively, igniting global interest among wine aficionados. British wine expert Jancis Robinson also commended the wine, remarking, "Many wines claim to be unique, but Ao Yun truly is."
Due to its limited production and high praise, Ao Yun was recognized as China's first cult wine. Its distinctiveness led many to exclaim, "This wine should belong to the heavens; it's rarely seen on earth." Achieving over 90 points from several prominent wine critics at its debut was an exceptional milestone for Chinese wine.
Next up, we’ll dive into the fascinating world of Canaan Winery. Get ready for a detailed exploration of its history, winemaking techniques, and the unique qualities that set it apart in the Chinese wine scene. You definitely won’t want to miss this!
Extended Reading:
Exploring the Emerging Regions: Chinese Wines Making Their Mark
